This task takes 5 hours by yourself, but not working too hard. This write up uses the through the wheel well method.
Make sure you have some new dex III before you start, have music playing and tools ready to go. Not piled in the corner from when you swept up.
Bring car onto solid (preferably level surface). Chock rear wheels and raise front end up. Put car onto jack stands.
Remove drivers side tire.
Drain trans fluid.
Remove air box and piping.
Remove battery hold down, battery and battery tray.
Unbolt icm, unplug harness, leave coilpacks and wires on and just set it out of the way.
Remove hydros and set off to side.
Unbolt dogbone mount from trans, remove breather hose, unplug reverse switch.
Remove nuts and grounds from upper trans to engine bolts.
Remove shifter cable clips and cables, tuck cables out of the way. Remove 3 bolts holding intermediate axle bearing to the block.
Unplug speed sensor.
Remove downpipe from stiffner plate. Remove downpipe from manifold, you should lube thoughs nuts earlier on so they do not strip. I usually replace them with intake nuts (big flanged nuts) they seem to last better. Remove stiffner plate, remove flywheel inspection plate.
Support rad so it stays up when you lower the subframe.
Unbolt steering rack, two bolts.
Remove plastic wheel well covers on drivers side. Remove caliper and rotor. Remove cotter pins on ball joint and tie rod.
Remove nuts ontop of the strut, on tie rod and ball joint.
Hammer on knuckle where the tie rod and ball joints go through to break them free. Or use a fancy press.
Loosen axle nut, hammer on nut not axle to push it into the hub. Once its moving remove nut.
A nice 2x4 makes this part easy, put between sway bar right by the control arm and under the frame. Press down on board and remove strut and hub assembly.
Tie caliper out of the way.
Support the engine from falling.
Remove bolts from lower trans mount to trans.
Place jack under subframe on driver side, raise it snug to the frame.
loosen subframe bolts on passenger side.
Remove subframe bolts from driver side.
Remove Drivers side axle, place prybar from underneath between axle and trans to put some pressure on it then give a few love taps and it with pop right out .
Bungie cord harness, ac lines and rad lines up out of the way. Remove 4 trans to engine bolts.
Lower the subframe.
Wiggle the trans loose. Tap on the intermediate shaft bearing bracket to get part way out of the trans.
Pull trans out, have a look at clutch and rear main. Make sure it all looks good.
Now time to reinstall.
Make sure clip holding clutch fork is secure on there and in good shape. It sucks when the fork falls.
Wiggle trans back in, it is nice to make some studs and place in the top two engine to trans holes for guidance. While putting trans in make sure intermediate shaft goes in. If spline are giving you a hard time lining up, put it into gear and have someone spin the passenger side tire.
Bolt up trans.
When bolting up subframe there are two alignment holes near the front bolts, put some rod or an extension w/e is snug up there to align it when tightening the subframe bolts up.
Then just following the steps in reverse putting everything back.
If I've left something out, or put stuff in the wrong order haha let me know.
I'm sure I will be tearing a trans down again soon I will do a write up from that too.