How to swap a 5sp for a 5sp

How to's and Custum Mods
Post your How to's and any pics of any projects your doing
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andrew88
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Posts: 371
Joined: Thu Jul 31, 2008 9:54 pm
Location: Innisfil ,Ont
 
by andrew88 » Sat Jun 05, 2010 11:03 pm
This task takes 5 hours by yourself, but not working too hard. This write up uses the through the wheel well method.
Make sure you have some new dex III before you start, have music playing and tools ready to go. Not piled in the corner from when you swept up.

Bring car onto solid (preferably level surface). Chock rear wheels and raise front end up. Put car onto jack stands.
Remove drivers side tire.
Drain trans fluid.
Remove air box and piping.
Remove battery hold down, battery and battery tray.
Unbolt icm, unplug harness, leave coilpacks and wires on and just set it out of the way.
Remove tam.

icm 2.JPG
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Remove hydros and set off to side.

hydros.JPG
hydros.JPG (177.22 KiB) Viewed 879 times


Unbolt dogbone mount from trans, remove breather hose, unplug reverse switch.
Remove nuts and grounds from upper trans to engine bolts.

reverse.JPG
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Remove shifter cable clips and cables, tuck cables out of the way. Remove 3 bolts holding intermediate axle bearing to the block.
Unplug speed sensor.

axle passenger side.JPG
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Shifter cables.JPG
Shifter cables.JPG (144.11 KiB) Viewed 879 times


Remove downpipe from stiffner plate. Remove downpipe from manifold, you should lube thoughs nuts earlier on so they do not strip. I usually replace them with intake nuts (big flanged nuts) they seem to last better. Remove stiffner plate, remove flywheel inspection plate.

unbolt downpipe 2.JPG
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Unbolt downpipe.JPG
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Support rad so it stays up when you lower the subframe.

rad.JPG
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Unbolt steering rack, two bolts.

unbolt steering rack.JPG
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Remove plastic wheel well covers on drivers side. Remove caliper and rotor. Remove cotter pins on ball joint and tie rod.
Remove nuts ontop of the strut, on tie rod and ball joint.
Hammer on knuckle where the tie rod and ball joints go through to break them free. Or use a fancy press.
Loosen axle nut, hammer on nut not axle to push it into the hub. Once its moving remove nut.
A nice 2x4 makes this part easy, put between sway bar right by the control arm and under the frame. Press down on board and remove strut and hub assembly.

strut and hub.JPG
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strut and hub 3.JPG
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strut and hub 2.JPG
strut and hub 2.JPG (219.8 KiB) Viewed 879 times

tie rod socket.JPG
tie rod socket.JPG (293.76 KiB) Viewed 879 times


Tie caliper out of the way.

caliper.JPG
caliper.JPG (166.5 KiB) Viewed 879 times


Support the engine from falling.

Support engine.JPG
Support engine.JPG (192.82 KiB) Viewed 879 times


Remove bolts from lower trans mount to trans.
Place jack under subframe on driver side, raise it snug to the frame.
loosen subframe bolts on passenger side.
Remove subframe bolts from driver side.

subframe bolt rear.JPG
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subframe bolt front.JPG
subframe bolt front.JPG (131.92 KiB) Viewed 879 times


Remove Drivers side axle, place prybar from underneath between axle and trans to put some pressure on it then give a few love taps and it with pop right out .
Bungie cord harness, ac lines and rad lines up out of the way. Remove 4 trans to engine bolts.
Lower the subframe.

installed trans.JPG
installed trans.JPG (176.65 KiB) Viewed 879 times


Wiggle the trans loose. Tap on the intermediate shaft bearing bracket to get part way out of the trans.
Pull trans out, have a look at clutch and rear main. Make sure it all looks good.

inspect clutch.JPG
inspect clutch.JPG (199.55 KiB) Viewed 879 times


Now time to reinstall.

Make sure clip holding clutch fork is secure on there and in good shape. It sucks when the fork falls.
Wiggle trans back in, it is nice to make some studs and place in the top two engine to trans holes for guidance. While putting trans in make sure intermediate shaft goes in. If spline are giving you a hard time lining up, put it into gear and have someone spin the passenger side tire.
Bolt up trans.
When bolting up subframe there are two alignment holes near the front bolts, put some rod or an extension w/e is snug up there to align it when tightening the subframe bolts up.
Then just following the steps in reverse putting everything back.

If I've left something out, or put stuff in the wrong order haha let me know.
I'm sure I will be tearing a trans down again soon I will do a write up from that too.
andrew88
Our Fearless Leader
Posts: 371
Joined: Thu Jul 31, 2008 9:54 pm
Location: Innisfil ,Ont
 
by andrew88 » Sat Jun 12, 2010 10:29 pm
So I was too annoyed to takes pics of the trans swap i just did but a side note; if the trans is giving you problems mating to the engine check the dowels. They can have rust built up on them or crap in the receiving end on the trans.
So 4 trans swaps in 8 days.. I do not want to see one for a while... but another note; if your having trouble getting the input shaft into the splines of the clutch while keeping the right side axle in you may have to take the knuckle off on the right side and take the axle out. Leaving it in is a nice time saver but if it will not save time if it decides to fight you..
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kuchnie na wymiar radomsko

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